Thursday, November 5, 2009

Port gets its just dessert.


Port wine has long been considered a bastard’s fare. It is looked down upon in most wine circles as unrefined, pedestrian, something to be sipped in the servants chambers while lord and lady bemuse themselves with the "real stuff" in the dining room.
There is a very real and quite vitriolic snobbery aimed squarely at my dear friend port.
And in reply to all of the tongue clucking I have but one simple response: Garrafeira.
To the uninitiated Garraferia port is as innocuous and unsuspecting as any other. All it takes is one sip and the rest, as they say, is history. To imbibe a Garraferia (from Niepoort winery) is to be forever enchanted.
Let me explain…
Garrafeira is an unusual and rare vintage style of Port made from the grapes of a single harvest that combines both the oxidative maturation of years in wood, with further reductive maturation in large glass demijohns.
It is required by the IVDP (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto/ The Port and Douro wine Institute) that wines spend some time in wood, usually between three and six years, followed by at least a further eight years in glass, before bottling. In practice the times spent in glass are much longer. At present, only one company, Niepoort, markets Garrafeiras.
Their black demijohns, affectionately known as bon-bons, hold approximately 11 litres of what can only be described as ambrosia.
It has a beautiful copper color that is suprsingly light for a such a robust vintage cycle. It’s Smokey caramel flavor reminds me of a mix between flan and a good scotch. There was a hint of peach in the finish and it was very light on pepper.
Some connoisseurs describe Garrafeira as having a slight taste of bacon, although many people will neither notice nor understand such a description; the reason being that, during the second phase of maturation, certain oils may precipitate, causing a film to form across the surface of the glass that can be tasted by those who are accustomed to the difference between Garrafeira and other forms of port.
This is simply one of the best wines available on the commercial market today.
For purchase and product info: http://www.niepoort-vinhos.com/NiepoortPortWines.html
Port Factoids:
Port is short for Portuguese.
Confusingly, the word Garrafeira may be found on some very old Tawny labels, where the contents of the bottle are of exceptional age.

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